Here at Rush, we don’t necessarily agree with the ‘front-wheel-drive is wrong-wheel drive’ philosophy. 

As you can tell from our hot hatch war series, some of our favourite cars claw at the tarmac with their front wheels, so when a car happens to be a driver-focused lightweight, with a screaming naturally aspirated engine, it’s a recipe for us all to get a bit giddy. Let’s take a deep dive into the world of JDM and more specifically the legend that is the Honda Integra Type-R DC2.

History

The story of the DC2 ITR starts in 1995 when it was sold exclusively in the Japanese domestic market. The Integra was only the second Honda to get the “R” treatment after the mighty NSX supercar and in typical Japanese fashion, they made the rest of the world wait to get their hands on this driver-focused coupe.

Essentially the ITR was lighter, stiffer and more powerful than the regular Integra but to complicate matters for us used buyers, each of those qualities varied depending on model year and in which market the car was sold. To stop things from getting overly complicated, we’re going to focus on two DC2 ITRs - the UKDM car and the 1998 Spec R JDM car. The latter is seen by many as the holy grail of Integra’s and the most focused of the whole DC2 production run.

UK vs JDM: What’s the Difference?

To most people, a DC2 Type R is a DC2 Type R. Red seats, white paint, big wing, revs for days. But look a little closer and you’ll start spotting the differences between the UK-market cars and the JDM versions, especially the later ’98 Spec R. And if you’re shopping for one, it pays to know what you’re looking at.

The obvious giveaway is the headlights. UK cars got four individual lamps, while JDM cars had simpler one-piece units. The rear end gives away a few clues too. Most JDM cars didn’t get a rear wiper, and many skipped air con altogether. That’s fine if you live in Osaka, less fun in a sweaty British traffic jam. UK cars also came with an immobiliser and alarm, along with the famous red master key. If that’s missing, you’ll be looking at a costly ECU and ignition barrel swap.

Under the bonnet, both versions share the same basic B18C engine, but the JDM car had a better 4-2-1 exhaust manifold and a smaller catalytic converter, so it made 197bhp rather than the UK’s 187. The gearing is slightly different too. JDM cars had a higher final drive and tighter ratios in first, second and third, which makes them feel a bit punchier at lower speeds.

Later ’98 Spec R models were fettled even further. Thicker front anti-roll bars, revised dampers, extra spot welds and slightly stiffer chassis bracing all came into play. Some of them got seam-welded front strut towers and dual airbags, though not all. Wheels were upsized to 16s with wider tyres, and they shaved a few more kilos with even less sound deadening.

That’s the other thing. JDM cars didn’t come with any kind of underseal from the factory, which means they’re often rustier underneath unless they’ve been properly protected. The trade-off is they tend to be a bit lighter and feel a touch more raw.

At the end of the day, both cars are brilliant. The JDM car is arguably the more focused of the two, but we’re talking fractions, and the UK model is often the easier one to live with. It’s simpler to insure, simpler to register, and usually comes with better paperwork.

Engine & Transmission

Let’s start with arguably the car's party piece, the glorious red crackle-finished B18C. UK cars boasted 187bhp at 8,000rpm, thanks to strengthened and lightened internals, but the JDM version had an improved 4-2-1 manifold and a smaller catalytic converter which brought power up to 197bhp and peak torque lower down the rev range. VTEC kicks in around 5,800rpm and it’ll happily zing all the way to 8,400rpm. It’s a proper screamer and one of the most addictive four-pots ever fitted to a road car.

To help get that power to the tarmac, a helical LSD was fitted. Once again, the JDM version had minor revisions made to its slick five-speed manual gearbox, with a higher final drive and 1st, 2nd and 3rd closer for better acceleration.

The reliability of both the engine and 'box is generally excellent as long as they are well-maintained. Regular fluid changes at 6,000 miles are recommended, so check the service history for consistent entries. Quality oil is a must (5W30 or 5W40 are popular) and it’s not uncommon for these engines to use a drop or two — up to a litre per 1,000 miles isn’t unheard of, even when everything’s healthy. A spare bottle in the boot in this case is a good sign rather than a red flag.

The cambelt and spark plugs should be replaced at 60,000 miles, so again check for receipts in the service history for this work having been carried out. As with most Honda gearboxes, the action should be rifle-bolt precise, but the synchros can be a weak point, with 2nd and 3rd being the ones to watch. Also, check for fluid leaking out of the slave cylinder. If the car has been on track - which many ITRs have - make sure servicing has been carried out more frequently.

As these cars have aged, a few more issues have started to crop up. OEM oil pumps can give up if the car’s been living in the top end of the rev range too often, and the crank pulley is another known weak spot. It’s also worth checking ECU mapping on JDM imports. They were designed to run on 100 RON fuel in Japan, and while UK super unleaded is close, it’s not quite the same. Without a remap or a piggyback ECU like a Hondata, some cars may suffer from detonation.

Plenty of DC2s have been lightly modified, so don’t be surprised to see cold-air intakes, uprated engine mounts, baffled sumps or even adjustable cam gears under the bonnet. None of that should be a deal-breaker as long as it’s been done properly, but as always, paperwork is key.

Bodywork

Stiffer and lighter than the regular Integra, Honda engineers went to town improving the bodyshell. Chassis strengthening, extra spot welds, thicker metal around the rear shock towers, a lower-mounted subframe, removal of sound deadening and even a thinner windscreen were applied to all Type Rs. A kerb weight of around 1100kg (spec dependent) means that despite their relative lack of power, they can still give a bloody nose to some more modern machinery.

Appearance-wise, UK cars differ from the JDM version by their four individual headlights compared to the Japanese cars' more ordinary-looking rectangular units. ’98 Spec R cars also had a redesigned rear bumper and shaved off a bit more weight compared to earlier models. Some also gained extra seam welding around the front strut towers, but it’s not always easy to spot without digging underneath.

As for what to check for, the dreaded crusty brown stuff can hit the ITR hard. Rear wheel arches are a known trouble spot, particularly around the lip and inner seam, but it’s just as important to check the underside thoroughly. Rear trailing arm mounts, floorpan seams and even the base of the A-pillars can show early signs of corrosion, especially on JDM cars that didn’t get any factory underseal. If the car still has its original cavity wax or worse, none at all, it’ll be more vulnerable to rot.

Take the time to get the car up on ramps and have a good prod around. If it’s not been recently done, invest in getting it properly undersealed. It can cost upwards of £1000 with a reputable professional, but when the alternative is cutting out untreated rust, it’s definitely the cheaper option. Sunroof drain tubes can block too, so check for signs of water ingress in the roof lining or rear footwells.

Also check that the boot hasn’t been collecting water through perished rear light seals, and keep an eye out for non-matching paint, poorly fitting panel gaps and signs of body repairs. As said before, many of these cars have been on track and/or driven hard, so shunts do occur.

Finally, check the windscreen for chips and cracks. Finding a Type R-specific replacement with the thinner glass could be difficult and costly, meaning your potential new pride and joy could be off the road for some time. Tailgate struts are another common weak spot, so don’t be surprised if the boot lid refuses to stay open on a cold day.

Brakes & Suspension

All ITRs came with pretty special suspension using double wishbones all round, just like the EK9 Civic Type R, so it’s no wonder the car has the reputation as the greatest FWD ever. The DC2 responds beautifully to steering input and manages to stay flat through corners without sacrificing road compliance. It’s proper back-road gold.

Some differences, however, came within the wheels and brakes. Both UK and ’98 Spec R cars came with a five-bolt stud pattern, replacing the earlier four-stud setup. They were also fitted with the larger brakes (282mm front and 262mm rear discs) whereas earlier JDM cars made do with 262mm and 242mm respectively. The ’98 Spec R also gained 16-inch wheels and 215/45/16 tyres, while the UK car made do with 15-inch wheels and 195/55/15s.

With the youngest ITRs now over two decades old, suspension components could well be past their best. Worn bushes are common, particularly the rear trailing arm bushes, and many owners will have upgraded to Polybushes or similar to tighten things back up. Done properly, this can actually improve feedback and durability without ruining the ride. Dampers are another key wear item, and a fresh set of Bilstein B6s is a popular OEM+ option that gives you a factory-fresh feel without going too far.

Also worth checking are the front upper control arms, which can seize or knock over bumps, and the rear camber arms, especially if the car’s been lowered. Some owners will have fitted adjustable items to correct the geometry, so it’s worth checking what’s fitted and whether the car’s been properly aligned.

Brakes are generally reliable, but slider pins can seize and handbrake mechanisms can stick if they’ve not been used regularly. Pads and discs are still available, but don’t expect to find many original-spec items sitting on a shelf. A lot of cars will now be running aftermarket setups from the likes of EBC or Ferodo. That’s no bad thing as long as it’s been done sensibly.

Interior

As with all Japanese cars of this era, interiors are bland and back to basics, even more so in the ITR. But if you’re complaining about the spartan cockpit, you’re kind of missing the point. It’s all about focus, lightness and feel, not creature comforts.

The big one to check is the driver’s side bolster on the red Recaro bucket seats. You have a better chance of finding rocking horse manure than one that doesn’t need re-trimming, so don’t be too concerned by frayed fabric. Thankfully, replacement foam and covers can still be found if you dig around. The seats themselves are snug and supportive, built more for wiry Japanese frames than broad-shouldered Brits, but they do the job brilliantly once you’re in.

Make sure the titanium gear knob is still present and hasn’t been replaced with a generic aftermarket part. The original item feels great in hand and suits the car’s minimalist approach. While you’re at it, check that the clock still illuminates and the heater fan works on all speeds. Resistor packs are known to fail. Electric window switches can be temperamental too, especially on cars that live outside.

A quick feel around the carpets for signs of damp is worthwhile, particularly in the boot or rear footwells. Leaky tail-light seals and blocked sunroof drains are common and usually easy to sort, but best caught early.

Aside from that, there’s not much else to worry about. The layout is simple, the materials are hard-wearing, and most trim tends to hold up well. If anything looks out of place, it probably is.

Running Costs

As mentioned previously, quality oil and regular changes are a must. Four litres of the gold stuff will set you back between £35 and £60 depending on brand, and an oil filter is around a tenner. Check the service history for coolant changes and consider getting the system flushed if it hasn’t been done in a while. Many owners overlook brake and clutch fluid too, so that’s worth asking about.

Being a bare-bones, four-cylinder, front-wheel-drive coupe, it can be fairly affordable to keep one of these in good condition, so long as you stay on top of the basics. Keeping rust at bay is key. Get it properly undersealed and cavity waxed and store it in a garage if you can. If not, try to avoid leaving it outside through the worst of winter.

Regular use is better than no use at all. These cars don’t love sitting still for long stretches, so don’t expect to tuck it away for six months and have it fire up like a new Civic. Stick to a little and often routine and they tend to behave.

Parts availability is becoming more of a challenge, especially for anything Type R specific. Panels, interior trim and even some mechanical components are starting to thin out. Some items are still available from Honda if you know where to look, but prices have gone up. Aftermarket support is strong, though, and there are plenty of specialists who know the cars inside out.

Insurance is another factor worth budgeting for. These cars are still a magnet for younger drivers and have become increasingly attractive to thieves in recent years, which hasn’t helped premiums. A decent alarm and tracker are well worth fitting if the car doesn’t already have them.

Market Assessment

Unfortunately for us enthusiasts, prices have continued to climb. Gone are the days where you could pick up a half-decent example for £4,500. Even that £15,000 benchmark is starting to look optimistic. As of 2025, most usable UK cars sit in the £17,000 to £22,000 range, with tidy JDM imports often a little higher depending on spec and history. Concours-level cars with low mileage and full provenance can now breach the £30,000 mark, especially if they’re unmodified and still in original paint.

Good luck finding one that’s completely standard, though. Most have had a few upgrades over the years, and that’s not necessarily a bad thing. Exhausts, intakes, dampers and bushes will all be past their best by now, so seeing quality replacements is often a good sign. A lightly upgraded car that’s been cared for can be a better bet than one that’s original but tired.

Sorry to keep mentioning the R-word, but rust is still the biggest threat to these cars long-term. Paperwork also matters more than ever. You want a car with a folder of receipts, showing regular servicing and recent mechanical work. If it’s had welding, that’s not necessarily a bad thing either, as long as it’s been done properly and not just hidden with underseal.

The market has become more informed in recent years. Clean cars tend to sell quickly, often through owners' groups or specialist dealers before they even make it to public listings. If you find a good one, don’t hang about.

Owners POV - Chris Tsoi

"Having worked my way through a Honda Civic coupe and the underrated 5-door MB6 Civic VTi-S it felt like a natural progression was to look at the Integra. More power, lighter and rarer. I never fancied going for cars that my friends were into at the time like the French Saxo VTS and Clio 172, they were the obvious choice. The big boys' cars like the E36 M3 and Impreza Turbos were cars out of my budget and reach at the time. 

The Integra DC2 as it’s known by its chassis code has an almost mystique about it. At that time, during the dial-up internet era (what’s that you may ask!), there was only one online forum to seek information about it. Rumours of some bespoke engine work, chassis treatment and even thinner glass pulled me in with the prospect of it punching above its class. 

Growing up with Max Power and Fast Car magazines I couldn’t help modifying it straight away, replacing some worn Honda badges, adding a Momo steering wheel and a budget intake. I continued on a path modifying trying multiple intakes, suspension setups and attending regular track days in it. The more I drove it the more I realised Honda had it right out of the box. 

"The standard suspension is a work of art, it’s the right side of subtle with perfectly matched damping for our A roads. The B18C engine has just the right amount of power and one of the best VTEC notes in the Type R line up goading you to push it all the way up to its dizzy 8,400rpm limit. 

The Recaro seats were superb, built for the slight Japanese driver but snug enough to hold you during hard Cornering. The bolsters can take a beating like most bucket seats with high sides but luckily it’s an easy fix and replacement sponge can be had online. The downside to such a special car is that it’s quite visceral to drive, the lack of sound deadening to keep the weight down and short gearing that helps to keep the engine in its sweet spot wasn’t that great for covering long-distance drives. 

But what it does do and it does it like no other is offer a driving experience that many, if any can match. It’s a car that allows you to exploit its limits and balance all aspects of the car's chassis, engine and brakes. All its elements and subtle tweaks by Honda HQ combine to give the best driving experience and for me it is still the best front-wheel-drive car ever to be made. A true legend."

With thanks to modern classics specialist Opposite Stock for providing the car

Honda Integra Type R DC2 Specs & Performance