Our journey begins not in the mountains, but at the medieval coastal town of Conwy. The opening salvo is the B5106 south to Betws-y-Coed. Initially, you’ll need to exercise patience as the road finds its feet, but once clear of Rowen and Tal-y-Bont, the rhythm comes. The surface settles, sightlines improve, and the corners tighten but don’t intimidate.
Past Dolgarrog, the road narrows again as it hugs the edge of the Gwydir Mawr & Bach forest, winding through its final stretch into Betws-y-Coed. One advantage of the B5106 is discretion - it runs parallel to the A470 trunk road, which hoovers up the majority of the tourist traffic.
We turn right at the T-junction onto the A5 towards Capel Curig - although if you need fuel, turning left will bring you to a Shell garage with super unleaded just half a mile away.
Dyffryn Mymbyr A4086 by Chris Gunns, CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Our next target is the A4086, which serves up a series of wide, highly entertaining sweepers framed by rising mountains as the route climbs into Snowdonia proper.
Despite such a backdrop, the Pen Y Gwryd Hotel still stands out, and indicates the point to indicate right onto the Llanberis Pass, which traverses the north western flank of Mt. Snowden. Despite being a clear turning, the Llaberis Pass is still labelled the A4086 - carry straight on and you’ll be driving the A498.
A4086 ascending to Pen-y-Pass by N Chadwick, CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
A word of warning - the Llanberis Pass can be memorable for both good and bad reasons. It’s the main approach to the car park for those climbing Mt. Snowdon, and that can mean heavy traffic. Get a clear run and you’ll experience an exhilarating drive framed by sky-scraping peaks as the road weaves between giant slate boulders. Get it wrong however, and you’ll become as frustrated as elevated for its a difficult road to overtake on. Timing is everything.
After Llanberis, the A4085 isn’t a star turn, but it earns its place letting the day’s best view of the mountains slip past the windows at a relaxed pace, with the occasional sequence of corners keeping the drive alive on the run to Beddgelert. If needed, there’s another Shell station at Caeathro.
For a more direct route, you can U-turn at Dolbadarn Castle and head back over the Llanberis Pass to pick up the aforementioned A498 south. Despite the A-road designation, it narrows to single-track in places, so use caution. When it doesn’t, the corners occasionally become technical and rewarding.
However you choose to get to Beddgelert, it's the A498 out of the pretty village we pursue further south next. Hemmed in by dry-stone walls, the road feels more B in size than A.
A498 Near Pont Aberglaslyn by Peter Trimming, CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
Further confusion arises when we turn left onto the A4085 again at the Aber Glaslyn Pass. Don’t worry, I haven’t spun you in circles. This is the Welsh road system playing its tricks, “pausing” roads for prolonged stretches before suddenly resurrecting them with a new character entirely. This is a good point to suggest keeping some written route notes handy - the mountains also like to play tricks by blocking phone and sat nav signals.
Now, the A4085 justifies its inclusion from behind the wheel, morphing from filler to thriller as it drunkenly meanders down to Garreg. The scenery does its fair share of heavy lifting, too.
Even so, it remains a supporting actor - because what comes next is better. The B4410 breaks away just past Garreg and displays all the hallmarks of a classic rollercoaster B-road: challenging bends, gut-wrenching undulations, unexpected long straights, and a surface that always keeps you on your toes. Just mind how you go around Rhyd, where the width pinches into single track for a short stretch.
Two things hold it back from true greatness - it’s over all too quickly, and to really get the best from it, you’ll need to be in a small hot hatch or roadster.
The B4391 near Ffestiniog by Jeff Buck, CC BY-SA 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
The Oakley Arms marks the left turn onto the A487. It’s a brief stint before another left onto the A496, where it’s decision time: carry on to Ffestiniog and the legendary B4391, or retreat north past Blaenau Ffestiniog as the A470 winds its way back to Betws-y-Coed.
Both roads will be familiar from our initial North Wales loop. But for us, the pull of the B4391 - arguably the best road in all of Wales, never mind the northern territory - is too much to resist.
Round off the drive with a well-earned portion of fish and chips beside Bala Lake, while pondering where the next road will take you.
Route Map
Super Unleaded Petrol Stations
Click the address for a Google Maps link
Shell Conwy
Conway Rd, Colwyn Bay LL28 5LE
Shell Betws-y-Coed
High Street, Betws-y-Coed LL24 0AY
Shell Caethro
A4085, Caeathro, Caernarfon LL55 2SS
For those travelling or staying further west…
Shell Porthmadog
High St, Porthmadog LL49 9LU
Accommodation
Luxury:
Craig-y-Dderwen Riverside Hotel
Betws-y-Coed LL24 0AS
Riverside retreat with an AA Rosette restaurant and EV charging.
Mid-range:
Black Boy Inn
Northgate Street, Caernarfon LL55 1RW
Full of character, great food and local ales.
The Royal Oak Hotel
Holyhead Road, Betws-y-Coed LL24 0AY
Smart, central, and right at the foot of the route.
Budget:
YHA Snowdon
Pen-y-Pass, Nant Gwynant LL55 4NY
Basic accommodation but brilliant location.
Gwern Gof Isaf Campsite
Capel Curig LL24 0EU
Mountain view campsite. Simple facilities, fire pits available.
Casual Dining Options
Hangin’ Pizzeria
Betws-y-Coed
Wood-fired pizza in a casual setting. Indoor and outdoor seating.
Y Badell Aur Fish & Chips
Bala LL23 7AE
Eat in or takeaway. Open seven days a week (varied hours)
